The Immortal Indigo

Indigo is a vibrant natural blue dye. It is derived from the Indigofera tinctoria plant. This natural pigment was a highly prized commodity across ancient civilizations. The dye held significant cultural value and sparked intense global trade that shaped colonial history. Later Indigo was largely replaced by a synthetic version in the late 19th century. However, natural indigo refuses to die. Today, indigo remains iconic, providing the distinctive blue colour for all herbal hair colours and nearly all denim jeans worldwide.

Ancient Origins

Archaeological evidence indicates that indigo dyeing was an independent discovery in various parts of the world.

• Peru

The oldest known indigo-dyed textile fragments, dating to around 4200 BCE (6,200 years ago), were discovered at the Huaca Prieta site.

• Egypt

Indigo-dyed fabrics have been found wrapped around mummies, demonstrating its early cultural significance there.

• East Asia: In China and Japan, indigo dyeing (known as aizome in Japan) has been practiced for centuries, valued for its deep blue colour as well as its antibacterial and insect-repellent properties.
• Africa: Various West African cultures have cultivated and used indigo for millennia, employing the dyed cloth in ceremonies and as a symbol of wealth.

Use of Indigo in India

Known as "nila" in Sanskrit, indigo cultivation is thought to have existed in the Indus Valley Civilization as early as 2000 BCE (4,000 years back). India became the primary source of the dye for ancient Greek and Roman civilizations, which is why the dye was named "indigo", derived from the Greek word indikón, meaning "from India".

Archaeological Evidence

Indus Valley Civilization: The earliest physical evidence in India comes from archaeological excavations at sites like Mohenjo-Daro and Lothal, dating back to around 2500–2000 BCE.

Archaeologists recovered indigo plant seeds, as well as fragments of cotton textiles dyed with indigo blue, indicating an advanced knowledge of indigo extraction and dyeing processes in this protohistoric period.

References in Ancient Texts

The Sanskrit term "nīla" or "nīlinī" appears frequently across a range of ancient Indian texts, including religious scriptures, scientific treatises, and epics, providing literary sources for its use:

• Vedic and Puranic Texts: The term "nīla" is present in Hindu scriptures like the Vedas and Puranas. The Atharva Veda, for example, mentions blue and red colored baked pottery ("Neela lohita"), suggesting a familiarity with these hues.
• Shilpashastra (Science of Arts): In the Viṣṇudharmottarapurāṇa, an ancient Sanskrit text dealing with arts and iconography, "nīla" is listed as one of the five primary natural colors used in painting (citra).
• Ayurveda (Science of Life): Indigo was valued not just as a dye but also for its medicinal properties. The plant is referred to as nīlinī in texts like the Raj Nighantu and the Yogasārasaṅgraha, where it is used in various herbal recipes and treatments for ailments like skin issues and premature graying hair.
• Mahabharata and Ramayana: The epics mention characters and places associated with the color blue, such as Nīla, the monkey general, who is described as being "glorious and dark of hue," resembling a mass of collyrium.
• Kautilya's Arthashastra: This ancient treatise on statecraft and economic policy from the 4th century BCE refers to dyes and their uses, implicitly including indigo, which was a major trade item.

These references collectively confirm that indigo, or nīla, was an integral part of ancient Indian daily life, commerce, art, and medicine for millennia.

Global Trade and Colonialism

During the Middle Ages, natural indigo was a rare and expensive commodity in Europe. So, the cheaper and less potent woad plant (Isatis tinctoria) was the primary source of blue dye.

The discovery of a new sea route to India by Vasco da Gama in the late 15th century opened up direct trade. Thus, Indian indigo. which produced a superior colour, began to replace woad.

This demand in Europe, where indigo was referred to as "blue gold," led to the establishment of vast indigo plantations in European colonies across India, the Americas and the West Indies. This mass production was heavily reliant on the forced labour and traditional knowledge of enslaved Africans and indigenous peoples, a grim chapter in the dye's history.

Modern Era and Synthesis

In the late 19th century, German chemist Adolf von Baeyer successfully synthesized indigo in a laboratory setting, a breakthrough that earned him the Nobel Prize in Chemistry in 1905. This cheaper, more consistent synthetic indigo quickly superseded the natural product, leading to a rapid decline in natural indigo farming by the early 20th century.

Today, the vast majority of indigo used commercially—primarily for dyeing denim and giving blue jeans their iconic blue colour — is synthetic.

However, environmental concerns and a growing interest in sustainable practices are leading to a resurgence in natural indigo production by artisans and specialized companies.

Use of Indigo for hair colouring

The practice of using natural dyes on hair is an ancient one. Henna was used for over 5,000 years in Egypt, India, and the Middle East for beauty rituals. Indigo (Indigofera tinctoria), which produces a blue dye, was naturally combined with henna to create darker shades.

• Ancient India (Ayurveda): One of the earliest known references to using indigo for hair care is found in ancient Vedic texts of India, dating to around 1500 BCE. In Ayurvedic practices, indigo was valued not only as a natural dye but also for its medicinal benefits, such as promoting hair growth, preventing premature greying, and soothing scalp issues.
• Combination with Henna: When applied alone, indigo tends to give a blue or blue-black tint. Ancient practitioners discovered that applying henna first to create a reddish base, followed by an indigo treatment, produced a range of natural-looking shades from brown to jet black. This two-step "henna-indigo" process has been used for centuries and is still widely used today.

Spread and Modern Use

While indigo was primarily a major global commodity for dyeing textiles for millennia, its use for hair coloring spread throughout Asia and Africa alongside textile dyeing traditions.

In more recent history, especially with the rise of eco-conscious beauty, natural and organic indigo powder has gained renewed popularity as a safe, chemical-free alternative to synthetic hair dyes. Today, it is recognized as a safe and effective natural solution for achieving vibrant, healthy hair colour.